Order pork lo mein from your typical take-out joint, and the dish invariably disappoints with greasy flavors and sodden vegetables. We wanted a version representative of the best any good Chinese home cook could turn out: chewy noodles tossed in a salty-sweet sauce and accented with bits of smoky char siu (barbecued pork) and still-crisp cabbage. Fresh Chinese noodles gave us the good, wheaty taste and firm texture we were after, and we also discovered that dried linguine worked just as well and was easier to find. We used our meat marinade as a sauce base, with a little chicken broth and a teaspoon of cornstarch for added body. After less than an hour of active cooking time, we had a pork lo mein with the flavor and texture that Chinese takeout rarely delivers.