For a lively dish in which the salmon is cooked perfectly and it and the sesame are offset with bolder, brighter flavors, we brine our fillets to ensure that each piece is seasoned and remains moist after cooking. The sesame seeds themselves are brined and toasted to bring out their flavor. Then we use a tahini paste that has been “thickened” with citrus juice to glue the citrus zest, scallions, ginger, and spice to the fillet. The resulting dish has the rich flavors of salmon and sesame seeds along with pops of ginger, citrus, and spice. In this recipe, the contrasting flavors shine through—and the last bite is as interesting as the first.